There’s lots more to this trip but I will keep it short. I am off to Uganda again in a few weeks, so it’s time to wrap this up.

From Kidepo we headed South on a long two-day drive through the wild Karamoja lands. The roads were bad, the scenery incredible.

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After the first day we reach Moroto, the district capital. Mount Moroto Hotel turned out to be, as I expected/hoped a fairly busy and well run African establishment (we are really off the tourist route here). To add to the fun a monster thunderstorm brews up in the night. We are forced to cancell our morning walk on the slopes of Mt Moroto. As we wait for Tonny and Hamza to pick us up, we discover an intriguing statue in the courtyard. At first I think I am imagining things, but the receptionist confirms: it is Moshe Dayan, another Israeli army guy and an American with an Ostrich (or is it a Flamingo?) and a Lion! She says they stayed here “long ago”. Later I try to find any mention of this but – nada. However the Israelis where very much involved in all kinds of military goings on in Uganda and South Sudan in the sixties so it’s not a total mystery.

From Moroto it’s another long and scenic drive. It is a market day – lots of people along the road carrying goods. The heavy rain has made some bits of the road almost unpassable; however, our problem is the Karamajong’s opportunity to earn some shillings and we get through with a bit of help.

We stop for lunch at Pian-Upe Game reserve. A tame Oribi and a couple of Ostriches welcome us and I have a look around. It’s a lovely spot and the bungalows are very neat and clean – definitely a place to stay next time. After lunch I sit out on a view point and watch a grey curtain of rain rolling towards us over the grasslands – time to go!

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From her it’s a very bumpy ride but we finally come out on to a “proper” road at the foot of the massive Mount Elgon (about 4000 metres high). It’s a short (and delicously smooth) drive up the foothills to Sipi River Lodge – a lush Oasis at 1800 metres, right by some dramatic waterfalls and cliffs. It’s also a beautifully designed lodge – the rooms hidden in the tangled jungle. The ladies are ecstatic about the decor and we enjoy a cosy evening with good food and a warm fire.

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The next day, after a leisurly breakfast, Saul and the ladies go on a “Coffee Tour” – to explore the local Coffee growing culture. Rupert, Humphrey and I are joined by Tonny for some very productive birding around the lodge and on the paths up to the waterfall.

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From Sipi its a short drive to Jinja, on Lake Victoria. I have a bit of a row with Tonny on the way. This has been brewing for a while – I won’t go in to details. Anyway, I switch to Hamzas car and send him with the boys on to the hotel while we go in to Jinja for some shopping. Later we meet up at the Kingfisher resort where a boat awaits to take us on our sunset cruise to the source of the Nile.

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The boat trip is terrific. First we cruise around and enjoy lots of water birds and a close-up massive Nile Monitor Lizard. Then to the official Source – a rickety platform set over a spring. The water bubbles up in the channel where the great river starts it’s 6000 mile (or is it kilometres?) journey. By now the sun is setting and huge flocks of giant Fruit-bats rise out of the trees as we check out monuments to Mahatma Ghandi and Speke (the British explorere who “discovered” Lake Victoria). Bats overhead, we make our way back over the darkening lake to a fish dinner at the Kingfisher.

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Rupert and Humphrey are returning to the UK, but for the rest of us there is still one last adventure. After breakfast we say goodbye to the Brits ( they will have a day’s relaxed birding with Tonny before their nightime flight home) and Hamza drives us to Entebbe. There we board an Aerolink Uganda Cessna and fly to Kihihi in the far South-West.

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To my delight we are met at Kihihi by none other than Tony himself (not Tonny the guide I had a row with but Tony, owner of Mamaland Safaris, a friend, and great fun to be with on safari). Tony is a fantastic birder – we have hardly driven out of the airfield’s parking lot when he points out a Red-necked Wryneck – a pretty rare bird I have never seen before. This is, of course, wasted on the others, but never mind.

We are headed to Bwindi Impenetrable Park, home to about half the world’s remaining Mountain Gorillas. While the others do their Gorilla adventure I plan to see as much of the park’s very abundant and unique birds as I can manage. With Tony around that should go well

We have a great couple of days – a bit of local culture, some nature walks and a very successful Gorilla Trek ( I skip this one – it’s very expensive and I want to spend all the time on birds!). And fantastic birds. I won’t bother with the details – here’s a little photo diary.

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After the Gorila trek we drive down the mountain, back the way we came. We make a stop in small Eucalyptus grove and while everyone is getting back in to the car I look back along the road to make sure we haven’t left anyone behind. A large black-and-white hawk glides out of the trees and crosses the road right in front of me, diving into the woods and disappearing in seconds. Not before I recognize it: a Great Sparrowhawk – the bird I missed seeing on the first day of our trip at Mabira Forest. It’s special, a sort of goodbye gift.

But the day is not quite over. We arrive at Topi Lodge with enough time for a quick evening drive through Ishasha – the Southern tip of Queen Elizabeth National Park. It’s a beautiful clear evening, clouds over the mountains across Lake Edward in Congo. Antelopes and Elephants graze the lush grassy flats and almost every tree seems to have some kind of Eagle sitting on top.

But then we stop next to a huge old Fig tree and it is full of Lions! I have heard about these “tree-climbing Lions” but thought it was just hype. Not at all, here they are, fast asleep, a tree full of them.

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We have seen almost every Eagle possible – Tawny, Spotted, Wahlbergs etc. But on our way out I spot a really big one on a small tree up ahead – can’t be anything but a Martial Eagle, the biggest of them all. He is totally relaxed, surveying the wide savannah as we ooh and aah and take pictures.

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We stop at the gate and watch as the sky turns pink and the Acacia trees become silhoettes. Tommorrow it’s back to Entebbe and from their onwards. I think this is good place to leave it.

With heartfelt thanks to the Mamaland team and so many other lovely people who took such good care of us

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